ladyofastolat: (Default)
[personal profile] ladyofastolat
Yesterday I decided to make a cheese cake. In my hand-written book of ancestral recipes copied from my mum, there is a recipe for Philadelphia cheese cake, which my mum herself copied from a neighbour in Edinburgh in about 1972. It ended up as a marvel of vagueness and guesswork. "Serves: lots," it said, which didn't help much, but since it also talked about lining two flan tins, I decided to do half quantities.



"Make up half a packet of jelly," it says, which means that I want quarter of a packet. But were packets the same size in the 70s? Oh well… Grab a few cubes, make up jelly… eat a few more cubes, and pause nostalgically to remember those days of sneakily filtching raw jelly cubes from my parents' larder. (I liked blackcurrant best.) Also pause to remember doing the same with cooking chocolate and handfuls of raisins. Somehow manage to be simultaneously happily nostalgic for cooking chocolate, and disgusted by memories of it.

"Crush half a packet of Digestive biscuits," it says. What size of packet? What does this mean? Give up and guess, then scurry around the kitchen, rummaging in drawers and cupboards looking for the rolling pin that I know we possess, but which has doubtless been appropriated for some strange use elsewhere. (Decide not to ask.) Pellinor offers a rather nice-looking marble-effect pestle and mortar, but I opt to use a bottle of beer (Fursty Ferret, I believe). Consider offering the shaken-up bottle of beer to Pellinor to drink, but decide not to.

"Mix biscuit crumbs with melted butter," it says. Realise that I've forgotten to half the butter quantities, so have a veritable lake of it hanging around. Pour half of it into a cup, mix the biscuit crumbs into the rest. The half-lake promptly vanishes; the biscuit crumbs stare at me, defiantly still dry. Shrugging, pour in the rest of the butter. Struggle to force the mixture to cover the base of my single flan tin. Maybe flan tins in 1970s Scotland were smaller than they are now. Consider googling general trends in the size of baking tins in Britain over the last hundred years, but decide not to.

"Mix half a cup of sugar with a packet of Philadelphia cheese." How much is half a cup? What size cup? How big a packet of cheese? What was the standard size for Philadelphia cheese in the early 70s in Scotland? Open up laptop to google it, but sanity briefly reasserts itself, so I close it again. Consider researching general trends in the packet sizes of food stuff in Britain over the last hundred years, but decide not to. Shrug, and chuck in whole, rather large-looking, packet. Calculate calorie content of what I've just done. Firmly decide to forget result.

"Wait until jelly is almost set." The "almost" is underlined twice, so it must be really important. Go off to kill zombies, but pop down every now and then to keep an eye on jelly. Jelly stays stubbornly liquid, but then suddenly hits some sort of tipping point. Gain "Bridge over trebled slaughter achievement" - run over a bridge in under 3 minutes - and in that 3 minutes, the jelly, cackling, turns.

Add jelly hastily to cheese. Survey lumpy mess that results. Give it and whisk to Pellinor, and get him to sort out the lumps and then add cream. ("One tin of cream," according to the recipe. Decide that this means "half a pot of single cream, thus leaving half spare for the dinner I plan to make tomorrow, and if that's not the right quantity, tough.") Realise that forgot to buy lemon, and find that artificial lemon juice is strangely brown. (Pause to remember childhood friend who visited on Pancake Day and refused to accept that lemon juice came out of lemons, because everyone knew that it came out of plastic lemon-shaped squeezy things.) Decide to give up on the idea of lemon.

A few hours later, serve. It's more like cheese soup than cheese cake, but very nice. Briefly calculate calorie content. Firmly decide to forget the result. (Am reminded of the cookery lesson at school when we learnt how to make flaky pastry, and then had a lesson about its nutrional content, which could be summarised as "Don't.") Eat. Let ecstatic cat lick bowl.

Cover remaining cheese cake with cling film. Pick up flan tin. Removable base rises up neatly, driving entire soupy cheese cake against cling film and making an almighty mess.

Shrug. Put in fridge, to worry about tomorrow. Leaf through recipe book to find out what I can make a hideous mess of next weekend.

Date: 2009-12-14 02:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rubygirl29.livejournal.com
Using old family recipes is like buying a lottery ticket. I've discovered that butter and flour are both significantly different than they were 50 odd years ago. Therefore, I always check websites for updated recipes of products that are still around.

I guess I am not confident in my guesswork when it comes to measuring, or in my grandmother's handwriting!

Date: 2009-12-14 02:45 pm (UTC)
ext_189645: (Default)
From: [identity profile] bunn.livejournal.com
My suspicions centre on your grandmother - my key recipe book that I fall back on regularly for all sorts of things was first printed in 1951, (my edition is late 60's) and I've not had it turn up anything that didn't work yet!

Tastes have changed a bit - in particular, the roasted meats would be well overdone by our standards - but the cakes & things are OK.

Date: 2009-12-14 04:23 pm (UTC)
ext_90289: (Default)
From: [identity profile] adaese.livejournal.com
I (mostly) agree, though you've got to watch out with eggs - you're probably safe if you use medium eggs, but large are, well, a bit too large for old recipes.

What really baffles me, though, is why anyone would want to halve the quantities of a cheesecake recipe. Double, yes, I can understand that, especially if you want it to do a second meal. But halve?

Incidentally, a cup is a standard American volume measure. 8 fluid ounces, if you want to use an ordinary measuring jug rather than investing in special measures (I have them, and use them all the time, as for most baking, it's a lot less faffing about than weighing ingredients). Or an old-fashioned tea-cup (but not so old fashioned you're meant to drink out of the saucer, of course. Tea cup sizes have changed as much as eggs).

Date: 2009-12-14 04:40 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] segh.livejournal.com
You need to know that provenance of the recipe - there are American, Australian and UK standard cups, and they're all different.

Date: 2009-12-14 04:49 pm (UTC)
purplecat: Hand Drawn picture of a Toy Cat (Default)
From: [personal profile] purplecat
I recall being asked to bake a chocolate cake while in Chicago and the total chaos that ensued in trying to translate the recipe in my head (which was in ounces) into something useable in the kitchen (all for American volume measurements - even the butter!).

We started out with workings on a blackboard and in the end opted for just adding stuff until I thought it looked right.

Date: 2009-12-14 04:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladyofastolat.livejournal.com
Even with half quantities, it's a very enormous cheese cake, and very filling. The one I made will do at least 3 meals... and from Wednesday onwards, life gets complicated with various Christmas dinners and early evening dancing engagements, so there will be no call for cheese cake.

I did know that a cup was an American measure, but I doubted that that was what was meant in a recipe that came from a Scottish person in the 70s, when no other quantity was given in cups. But who knows? One measurement was in ounces, one in tablespoons, one in teaspoons, one in cups, three in packets, and one in tins, so perhaps the person who wrote it down was trying to collect a full set. All we were missing was grammes.

Date: 2009-12-14 09:45 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] skordh.livejournal.com
Yes similar story here, I use my grandmother's Good Housekeeping cookery book, first printed 1948 and the text of my one dating from 1966. I do try and watch out for overly large eggs, and occasionally my incompetence leads to bizarre results, but typically things work (e.g. recent pumpkin pie). There is no jelly in the book's cheese cake recipe, but as it contains ground almonds, semolina and raisins it doesn't sound like normal cheesecake anyway. Maybe it is ancestral proto-cheesecake.

Date: 2009-12-15 08:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
My suspicions centre on your grandmother

Taken out of context, that sort of comment could be misinterpreted :-)

in particular, the roasted meats would be well overdone by our standards

Not by my standards! :-)

Date: 2009-12-15 09:08 am (UTC)
ext_189645: (Default)
From: [identity profile] bunn.livejournal.com
What even for lamb? My cookbook considers lamb 'indigestible' unless very well cooked, to a degree that I suspect would give it the texture of a very old sheepskin slipper.

Date: 2009-12-15 09:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
Yes, even for lamb! :-)

Date: 2009-12-14 04:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladyofastolat.livejournal.com
I'm intrigued now as to how butter and flour can have changed. Is this evolution at work, I wonder? :-)

My other problem is that when I copied the recipes, I added unhelpful notes of my own. One recipe includes the instruction: "keep meat warm, somehow (how?). Add cream, hoping that it doesn't curdle", which introduced enough of a note of doubt into the proceedings that I approached the whole thing with extreme nervousness.

Date: 2009-12-14 04:50 pm (UTC)
purplecat: Hand Drawn picture of a Toy Cat (Default)
From: [personal profile] purplecat
Different varieties of flour I would guess. Butter... beats me...

Date: 2009-12-15 08:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
IIRC butter is more consistent these days - the concept of a rich spring butter, for example, has completely disappeared - but I don't know how it might have changed apart from that.

Flour is certainly a lot finer and more even than it was, so there's no need to sift it now.

Date: 2009-12-15 09:10 am (UTC)
ext_189645: (Default)
From: [identity profile] bunn.livejournal.com
I think there's still quite a lot of variation in the taste of butter, depending who you buy it from and where the milk came from - but I agree I've never seen a recipe call for a particular butter, and I'm not sure I could tell the difference anyway once it was in a cake!

Date: 2009-12-14 05:50 pm (UTC)
gramarye1971: Bottles of wine displayed in racks (Wine)
From: [personal profile] gramarye1971
I have to admit that my immediate, knee-jerk response to cheesecakes made with jelly is to back away slowly with fearful eyes -- but only because my experiences with them have been universally coloured by my aunt's various disastrous attempts to make them for family holiday parties, in which they always come out runny or on the point of separating into their component parts but have to at least be nibbled at for form's sake. Jelly can be such a finicky thing!

All the same, I admire your courage in attempting this recipe. I won't use ancestral recipes for anything that involves baking for most of the reasons you've hinted at here. ^_^ Fortunately, the ancestral recipes I really care about duplicating are all stews and things that can always be doctored to fix problems in the process.

Date: 2009-12-15 08:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ladyofastolat.livejournal.com
It wasn't courage so much, but rather naivete - not realising that it might be a problem. I've done very little cooking for years, but have recently leapt back into it - but not in a sensible fashion, by choosing nice and easy things, but by working through ancestral recipe books of exciting dishes I remember from childhood parties. Most have turned out nicely, but some have proved... interesting. :-)

Date: 2009-12-14 07:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
I'd be happy to help eat it, if you want ...

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